Sean Meighan
Welcome => Do You Need Help? Post it here => Topic started by: Krisg on September 06, 2016, 05:45:19 PM
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Hey guys I'm fairly new to xlights. Love the software. Started setting up everything and it's going pretty well until I get to my layout part. I set each starting point and how many lights are in each model and it's coming up with some weird end channels. So much so that it's not working with the lights. I even go into each individual modeel and say what ip and universe to use and even though that's set, if i scroll over it with my mouse it's always off on the universe. What do you guys need to help, ie screen shots or network layout. Please help
On another note I have made a 9*18 matrix starting at the bottom left running horizontal. Do I have to run the first 18 then solder a jumper so the second set with be back above the 1st pixel or can it just go above the 18th and run back toward the 1st?
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Hey guys I'm fairly new to xlights. Love the software. Started setting up everything and it's going pretty well until I get to my layout part. I set each starting point and how many lights are in each model and it's coming up with some weird end channels. So much so that it's not working with the lights. I even go into each individual modeel and say what ip and universe to use and even though that's set, if i scroll over it with my mouse it's always off on the universe. What do you guys need to help, ie screen shots or network layout. Please help
Tell us what kind of lights you are using (smart rgb, dumb rgb, incandescent) and post your network and rgb_effects.xml files.
On another note I have made a 9*18 matrix starting at the bottom left running horizontal. Do I have to run the first 18 then solder a jumper so the second set with be back above the 1st pixel or can it just go above the 18th and run back toward the 1st?
Yes, go down, up one, and back. In our venacular that's called "zig-zagging" For a model with an odd number of strands, it's best to set the zig-zag in the controller. You can run 162 nodes off of one SPI output (with power injected at the end), so I would run one string and in the controller set the Zig-Zag setting for that SPI output to 18. Then you could set the model up like below:
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If you can't set the Zig Zag in your controller, you can always use a custom model with the Zig-Zag.
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Thanks guys
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Ok so I figured it out it was in the setup of the lights. I fixed that issue. now my second issue is I made up the matrix. tested it right at the controller and it worked. I added a 30 foot extension cable 18/3. That made it light up about half of the display, but had communication issues. I added a null pixel and now it only lights up 3 pixels. I tried to power inject at the end and it didn't help. What should I do?
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I guess main question is how far can I go without adding a pixel as a null?
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The answer to you question is what controller are you running. From experience E682 will only go 15 feet. F16v2 will run 50 feet easy
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I am running all E682's. and that explains a lot. any way it can go further? and how expensive are the f16v2's
and do they program the same?
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The E682 will go just as far but you need to replace the resistor pack. We just coached someone on Facebook this week and he did that and got it working at a greater distance.
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Any chance you can copy and paste that to me. I could give you my email if that works. Been pretty bummed this isn't working the way I thought it would
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I'm having a very similar problem with my E682 setup. All is fine when connected right at the controller. When I put the fixture at the end of a 7m cable there's no data.
Is the trick to increase the value of resistor packs?
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I changed my resistor packs to this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-330G-DALE-330G-SIP-RESISTOR-NETWORK-NEW-LOT-OF-3-PIECES-/371039201521?hash=item5663a8e8f1:g:v~IAAOxy4eJTNx40
And I have 2 runs at 45ft doing well.
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ops meant to add if you have trouble finding them I have a bunch I could send you a set.
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Thanks I just ordered 4 sets just to be sure. Now with this will I have to use null Pixels our will i be fine
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And which resisters am I replacing? Are these soldered in or just the slide in ones?
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I found the resisters to replace while I read the manual. The ones on ebay are 6 pin though and the slots are 8 pin. second question is what are the ohms of the new resistor supposed to be? The old one is reading 270 ohms.
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Maybe something like this:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/4608X-102-560LF/4608X-2-560LF-ND/1089148 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/4608X-102-560LF/4608X-2-560LF-ND/1089148)
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So dropping the ohms to 56 ohms is that correct
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That is the resistance of that part. I don't know what correct is. There's probably a big range that would work.
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@Traneman What is the resistance of the resistors from ebay? you said you had a few extra. Just wanting to make sure I had a few extra in stock
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Sorry I did point you in the wrong direction,those from ebay wont work.
The resistors I have are 330ohm 8 pin.The ones you have I would assume are black in color and are
271ohm.
I do have extra's pm me your info and I will drop a set in the mail.
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Where did you get them so I can order more for the future
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You want to go to lower resistance so 330 ohm won't help you.
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This is right from the owners manual for San Devices.
Pluggable Resistor Networks:
There are 8 pluggable resistor networks on the E682 located just above the upper row of pixel string connectors. Each
resistor network affects the 2 string connectors immediately beneath it. These resistor networks may be changed to a
different value in certain situations, depending on pixel type, and/or type and length of pixel wiring. These networks may
also need to be changed for outputs that are driving DMX devices. The resistor networks must be in place for the E682 to
operate. The standard “as-shipped” value for these resistors is 270 ohms (part number containing “271”. Smaller resistor
values may be needed in cases where the distance between the E682 and the start of the pixel strings is unusually long.
These are the exact ones Iam using and they do work. Sorry goofed again should be 33ohm the part number 0n the resister network said 330.
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;D
My gosh I think I had it right the first time. 330ohm.
Like I said I have some I would be happy to send you and you can give it a try.
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Oh perfect. While I want for yours, am I able to use individual ones if I go to radio shack for testing purposes
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Not sure about using individual ones
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I know when I took out the black ones I tested continuity between all and it looks like it's a bank of 8 but the resistance is in pairs
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Ok when I said wide range I guess I need to be more specific. You probably don't want anything over 100ohm. I think the 56 ohm is what you should order because that's what I've seen a few people use on Facebook and Darrell from Crockett Fantasy of Lights was talking about how he had a ton of them. There's only 1 reason he has a ton of them. You want more distance so you don't want to go higher than 270 you want to go lower. I do have a EE degree on the wall.
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@Gilrock Any specs besides the 56 ohms, and 8 pin? Secondly what are your thoughts on using single resistors while waiting. Theoretically it sounds like it would work. I tested the 8 pin resistor and it tested where each of the 4 pairs are reading 270ohms. So I could pick up 4 to test it?
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No other specs are gonna matter. Single resistors will work fine.
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Kris this might help you
I found this from Jim StJohn (owner/designer for Sandevices). Sadly it is not definitive. He says "test" various resistor values and gives the range. I hope we can find more ..
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If you are encountering issues such as pixel flickering when trying to drive pixels over a long cable run (say more than 15-20 feet) with the E682, this can sometimes be cured by replacing the pluggable resistor network that drives that output with a different value.
There are 8 pluggable networks on the E682, each drives the 2 output connectors immediately beneath it. The default value is 270 ohms, indicated by a part number containing "271" 27 followed by 1 zero = 270.
A smaller value can often help when driving long pixel leads. There are a couple of ways to test this without having to have different resistor networks available.
You can use individual 1/4W or 1/8W resistors (say from Radio Shack), or you can use small wire jumpers (effectively 0 ohm resistors).
Remove the resistor pack above the output to be tested. This will leave 8 empty socket holes, 1 thru 8 from left to right. Form the resistor or jumper leads into a "U" shape with the legs equal lengths (about 1/2") and about 1/10" apart.
For 3 wire pixels such as 2811/2812, only one resistor or jumper is needed per output. For the upper jack of the pair, insert the resistor or jumper between contacts 5 and 6, for the lower jack use pins 7 and 8. Power up and test the output.
If you are using resistors, I would try starting at 33 ohms and working up. Go one standard value less than the highest value that works reliably. For example, if 56 ohms works, but 68 ohms appears flaky, go with 47 ohms.
If you are doing the test with jumpers, if the output works properly with the jumper in place, then I would suggest purchasing the Radio Shack resistors to identify the best value.
The resistor networks can be purchased from any electronic supplier. They are "83" series, 8-pin networks containing 4 individual resistors. A typical part number would be: 83S560. The resistance is shown by the 3 digits after the S. 2 significant digits and the 3rd digit represents the number of 0s. So 83S560 is a 56 ohm resistor, "56" followed by no zeroes.
83S101 would be 100 ohms "10" followed by 1 0 = 100.
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Here's a user reply to Jim:
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I have replace all of my resistor packs with 33 ohms. On short or long runs that solved my flickering problems. I have 5 682's.
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Thanks Traneman that is great
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