Author Topic: Reverse input direction  (Read 943 times)

Offline TheSizzler

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Reverse input direction
« on: October 13, 2016, 05:53:40 PM »
First let me start off by saying hello, and thanks for a great program. I can't believe I paid to go pro on LOR...lol
 Anyway this is my first year getting into pixels, I have a pixcon 16 board, and here is my question in probably 2-3 parts (sorry) I have super thick garland that I hang from my fence on each side of house, so I redid them each 9' section with 50 pixels each, but when looking at house from street my controller will be somewhat centered, and the fence garland on left I will have my single input going to the last/end of garland pixel node 150.., I know on LOR setup I was able to put something like the furthest pixel is 1 ( I hope you get what i'm saying?) so is there a feature in xlights where I can do same? or do I have to? last in order to do the garland on fence poles I did 3 arches in row and flipped upside down. Is there a better way? Thanks

Don

Offline keithsw1111

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Re: Reverse input direction
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2016, 06:05:18 AM »
Ste the "Starting Location" model property to right.

Offline dkulp

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Re: Reverse input direction
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2016, 08:13:53 AM »
Honestly, I'd do this in the controller.   You didn't mention what kind of pixel controller you are using, but MOST of them have a setting for the string to "reverse" the data going out so the first pixel is the furthest one out.
Daniel Kulp
Framingham, MA

Offline TheSizzler

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Re: Reverse input direction
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2016, 09:46:02 AM »
Controller is a Pixcon16 from LOR it was kinda hidden in my post.  I think that is where I checked it, on board setup(been a few months) was not sure if that was just for LOR or what ever program used.. That's a relief that its in the board, I already have all cables done and ready power injection and all, thinking I might have to make new cable with null pixel. I got good at removing jacket from sjow cord and only cutting data wire I solder the +/- directly to board then the cut data, followed by two layers of dual wall heat shrink, so far I only had need to do that in two places... I do have a couple pre made ones from Ray wu in case things work a little differently when all connected outside, so far all works good when laid out on bench test..